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As a climber transitions into more challenging sport or trad climbs, the need for better habits and tactics around optimal resting on routes arises. These thoughts and ideas can be applied to longer boulders (not to exclude the pebble wrestlers among us), as well as onsighting or flashing climbs. However, we will be focused on better resting while attempting to send a project that has already been attempted in this article. In the words of Adam Ondra, "It's easy: I'm either climbing or relaxing." If we take these words to heart, we can really focus on becoming more effective at both our resting, as well as our climbing while working on any project. Here are three thoughts and associated tips to consider while working to improve how you rest on the wall.

Training sessions have a way of being sneaky when we look at them on paper. We look at something like "5x5 at 80%" and it doesn't seem all that hard. Nor does "4 pitches at 2nd tier." Nor does "Do five pull-ups. Add two per day for 30 days." Much like the ancient grains on a chessboard problem, we don't know what we're getting into until we're into it deep. I've never felt this more than when I tried to follow through on a complete season of endurance training. I love bouldering. I don't mind getting pumped on a route at the crag. But day after day of training in that sickening zone of fatigue, well…

The use of visualization or imagery practice in sport and performance has been long regarded as one of those tools that seems like magic. For a long time most of the research centered around using imagery practices to improve skill sets and to help performance anxieties-say shooting a basketball or swinging a golf club. There are some studies that show a scattering of evidence pointing to the fact that imagery can improve strength in single joint movements; like a biceps curl.

Endurance is the ability to display power or strength over time. It can be of continuous, high intensity, or it can be intermittent in nature. There are many different ways that endurance shows up in our sport, and there are a few key lessons to take home before we start equating simply working up a sweat with being able to beat the pump.

The year I turned 40 I finally learned how to read. Actually that's a bit misleading, as I have been devouring all sorts of fiction ever since primary school: classics, crime novels, sci-fi, you name it. But non-fiction nearly always left me cold. Sure, I slogged through plenty of it out of necessity, but not with much enthusiasm. Then I discovered a radical new reading tactic, thanks economist and polymath Tyler Cowen. The trick is to stop being a slave to reading every page, front to back, of every book you start.

Strength training takes time and effort. And when training pure strength, it can be taxing on the nervous system. What if there was a way to decrease your feelings of fatigue and increase your training efficiency? New research has come out that describes a way to do just that. By paying attention to your speed for each rep, you can improve your results and they might just come more easily. Velocity loss training is a relatively new training protocol that prescribes rep and set amounts not based on specific repetitions, but when the athlete cannot keep the same velocity during the lift.

The cool thing about studying one field for a long time is that you start to identify the core principles of how that field works. You start to understand that it shares principles with other fields. And you start to see that everyone who advances in the sport must follow those principles.

Don't expect to climb for 8 hours if you can't do 8 hours of chores. If maintaining threshold level aerobic activity (i.e. a jog) for more than 10 minutes makes you want to puke, that 40 meter project is probably not in the cards. If simply lifting a few heavy objects off the ground leaves you crippled in bed the following day, you'll likely never get anywhere near your real limit on a boulder problem.

Even though tendon strength is crucial to athletes and rock climbers in particular, there is rarely any discussion about it. Today, the little information we find about training our tendons is truly disproportionate to the abundance of information we find about muscle training. Tendons, like muscles, are crucial components in our movement system. Time is wasted on training strong muscles if the force cannot properly be translated to our skeleton because we have neglected our tendons.

Did I get your attention? Are you searching for the magic bullet that will instantly transform you into a stone crushing Crankenstein that eats hard rock climbs for breakfast? I sure hope not. The truth is, there is no magic bullet. My sincere hope is that if you're reading this piece, you already know that, and you're still here because you can't turn away. There's an accident on the side of the road, and you're slowing down to see what happened.

Remember the last time you felt almost unstoppable at the crag? You had loads of energy, latched holds with authority, and savored the fight on every attempt. It was almost as if there was actually less gravity every time you pulled onto the wall. Goals felt attainable and you saw tangible progress on a regular basis. That is the feeling of positive momentum.

Five years ago, fed up with what felt like a lack of inspiring options, I set a goal to redpoint Better Than Life, an infamous 5.13c at Owl Tor in Santa Maria, California. Owl Tor was my local area back when I lived in Santa Barbara and my friends still climbed there regularly. Yet, even with belays at the ready, this was logistically challenging. For those without a map handy, Santa Maria is about 1000 miles south of Eugene. The route was also well beyond my current abilities. I had only redpointed two other 5.13's at that point in my career. So yeah, it was going to take some time, effort, and more than one trip down south.